Wednesday, December 9, 2009

BMS design, based on AC techniques

At November's Seattle EVA meeting, Stephen Johnsen made a presentation and showed a video in which he short-circuited a 100Ah ThunderSky cell to test the claimed 2000A limit of the cell. During the test, the cell voltage sagged to 0.5V, but twenty seconds later when he threw the switch OFF, it popped right back up to 3.2V.

Since seeing that, I've been pondering the question of how to tell what a cell is really doing, while it's running in a system. The question that's been rattling around in my head is whether there's a way to tell the difference between a cell that's at 2.5V because it's under heavy load, and a cell that's at 2.5V ocv because it's fallen off the cliff and is in mid-plummet? I mean, obviously, there's the difference in the current going through the system under those two circumstances, but I don't think that's indicative. Let's ask the question a different way:

Is there a way to tell when one cell becomes 'reverse biased' in a running system? Let's say you've got 1/3rd of your pack charge left, and you start driving across Nevada on a flat level road at 50 mph. You're pulling a nice steady 100A off the pack, and you're just cruising along. 25 miles later, your lowest cell hits the proverbial cliff. How can you tell? You still see 100A going through the system, but now the rest of the cells are starting to shove current through one cell that's misbehaving. Is there
any sign of this that can be detected before it's too late? Does the voltage across that cell and the current through it in any way indicate that the cell has become a resistor instead of a battery?

In the AC world, you could imagine looking at the phase of an AC device, and measuring whether its phase is leading or lagging the line voltage, to determine whether it's sourcing or sinking power. Is there anything like that on a DC battery? Can you tell by looking at "edges" in the current/voltage domain, to see where voltage edges lead current edges, and where they lag?

Would you learn anything by intentionally pushing a voltage ripple down the wire, and watching what it does as it flows through the system? Or would the capacitance and inductance of the cells just filter such a signal out? What if every BMS board had a PLL oscillator on it, that pushed a small ripple signal down the big pipe, and the next BMS board in the chain was watching that ripple to see how its own cell changed the shape of it? Could that tell you somehow what each cell is doing, and whether it's sourcing or sinking power?

I don't know the answer, or even enough about the field of batteries to predict what the answer might be, but it's an interesting question.

Tuesday, December 1, 2009

Charger / balancer co-design

In the process of upgrading one EV (lead acid-based) and planning a second (LiFePO4-based), I've spent a lot of time pondering the questions of charging and balancing the cells. I've come to the conclusion that these are not separate tasks. So I find it unusual in the EV community that the two topics are treated so separately. You buy your charger from company X, and then your balancers from company Y, and you pray that they play nice together.

Your charger comes pre-configured with a charge profile from the factory, and the balancer boards have the unsavory job of trying to fight against that charge profile to get all the batteries charged before the charger shuts off. What's going on here? I seem to be missing something.

Another possibility... which is the system being used on the lead acid EV I'm upgrading... is to install separate chargers on every battery. This is very practical if you only have 10 batteries to charge, and don't have to worry too much about discharge characteristics. But when you get into LiFePO4 territory, now you're talking about 45, 50, 90, 100 cells to charge individually? And still need a protection mechanism to protect them as they discharge? It seems like there must be some economies of scale that would be missed by installing separate chargers on every cell.

Yet, in many ways, having each cell charge individually is the ideal.

How can that ideal be accomplished with a series charger and balancer boards? What if
the individual cell balancers know the charge profile of the cells, and direct the charging at a local level? The "charger" would become a slave unit, a cooperative partner that provides the total voltage requested right now by the balancers in the pack, with the current limited by the smallest current any single cell needs + the maximum current a balancer board can shunt (after some of them start ramping down).

So, it would be like you split the charger in half. Put "the dumb half" that has the AC windings and the DC regulator in a common spot, and spread "the smart half" that knows the charge profile out to each battery as part of the balancers. The dumb half shouldn't really be dumb... it should be Power Factor Corrected for efficiency, and it should actually be pretty sophisticated with tight control over the voltage and current being supplied to the pack. And the smart half could be pretty simple, using the simplest circuitry available to conduct CC/CV/float charging on a 3.2V cell.

The feedback from all those balancer boards to the charger base is the really tricky part in this equation, to make charging reliable and robust. I don't have a good suggestion there yet. I've been playing in my mind with differential op-amps, and wondering if they'd be sensitive enough to get it right without wandering off into wild oscillations or positive feedback loops.

Are there any chargers out there right now that match this design philosophy? I have heard suggestions that perhaps the Manzanita chargers do this, but their website is very "least common denominator" in this respect. About their chargers, the Manzanita website says (and I quote), "The actual power delivered is a function of input and output voltage." Whereas I'd like to see something that says, "The actual power delivered is a function of input and output voltage, the needs of the individual cells as they charge, and the capabilities of the balancer boards."

Friday, November 27, 2009

Wheels Spinning! With caveats...

I have 'succeeded' on the installation of my new 120V upgrade to the Honda! Almost...

Yesterday, I got the high-current wiring relocated and connected between the controller, the contactor, and the motor. Today I rewired just about 100% of the low-current wiring inside the panel box that provides power to the contactor and controller.

Then I hit the snag... I reconnected the battery pack, turned the system on, and all of a sudden... Nothing Happened. There was no error code flashing on the controller, just a steady green light. There was no satisfying "chunk" of the contactor closing. There was no spinning of the wheels when the throttle was advanced. There was nothing.

Hmmm.

I did a little debugging, and decided that for some reason, the controller is not pulling the contactor to ground. So as a test, I bypassed the controller and wired the low side of the contactor directly to ground. And that worked. Then the contactor went chunk, and the wheels spun when the throttle was pressed.

OK... so I just have to figure out what's going on that the controller is not controlling the contactor as desired. A question for the community, or the manufacturer, next chance I get.

Here's the engine bay of the nearly-completed 120V upgrade. White box tucked up in the grill is one of the heated, insulated battery boxes. Toward the rear, driver's side is the new controller and converted throttle. And to the passenger side of the controller is the panel box where many of the goodies hide such as the contactor, the fuse, the kill switch, the current shunt, the precharge resistor, etc. The panel box is kind of hiding behind the reflector of my shop light, sorry about that.


Looking inside the panel box. You can't really see much of the high-current wiring in this pic, except the 400-amp fuse (round white thing) and the front of the contactor (black box above the round white thing). The two thick red cables running in front of the panel box are the 2 wires from the controller to the motor, and the black cable cutting the lower right corner of the picture is the "most negative" cable in the car, returning the motor current from the controller to the low side of the battery pack.

All of the low-current wiring (skinny red, black, and green wires inside the panel box) is what I was working on today. The main issue was that the old controller used 72V pack voltage to run it, but the new controller does not use the 120V pack voltage, it uses 12V from the auxiliary power system to run it. In the process of rewiring that, I decided to change a couple other things, too. The relay that used to be pulled by the ignition switch to feed 72V to the controller, I am now using to feed 12V from the main fuse box to the controller, the contactor, and the power brake pump, instead of feeding all those components straight through the ignition switch. It's a cleaner power source... I measured 13.3V from the ignition switch, and 13.5V straight off the main fuse box.


A better view of the 120V controller (Kelly KDH14500B) and the rewired throttle box.

Tuesday, November 24, 2009

PB-6 Converted to 0-5V

For the Kelly KDHB series controllers, they only accept 0-5V throttle input. The Honda had a PB-6 two-wire 0-5Kohm throttle on it. So tonight, I converted it. Hooked up 5V to "the other lead" on the potentiometer, and also took the opportunity to wire up the throttle switch, which wasn't connected previously.

Back Side.

Front Side, with Kelly-provided "J2" connector and wiring harness.

Monday, November 23, 2009

New 120V Controller

I'm working on installing the 120V controller yesterday and today. It's a Kelly KDH14500B. Cut a new plate to fit under it, and mounted it on the plate with silicone heat sink compound. Boy, that stuff makes a mess, when you're trying to cover a 6" x 11" area!

Here's the new controller, mounted in place but not wired in yet:



Saturday, November 21, 2009

Insulated Rear Battery Box

Today I built the battery box for the 4 Discover EV31A-A batteries in the far rear of the Honda. From start to finish, it took me about 9 hours, not including breaks! My wife was helping me for about the last 3 hours, too. The tasks included: Unwiring the 4 batteries and removing them from the car. Cutting a 1/2" styrofoam sheet to go under the 4 batteries. Wiring up the 4 heater pads and the thermostat. Mounting the heater pads in the car. Replacing the 4 batteries. Cutting and fitting the styrofoam walls of the box. Fitting a lid. Wiring the batteries all back up. Mounting the thermostat. Cleaning up.

Now all of my battery racks are running at a nice toasty 90'F!
Some pics:

The box, about 1/2 finished, putting together an inside corner.

The corner after it's been slid into place

Buttoned up with the cover.
[Yes, I remembered to get the scissors out! :-)]

The thermostat hides under the block sticking out. Hot water heaters place their thermostats under the insulation, so that the entire body of the thermostat heats to temperature. I mounted the thermostats on the batteries the same way, surrounded and covered by insulation.

Saturday, November 14, 2009

Insulated Front Battery Box

The last couple weekends, I've been working on building insulated, heated battery boxes.

Here are a couple pictures of the battery box that has the two batteries just behind the front grill of the car.

The completed box.


The thermostat on the rear of the box.


Here is the group of 4 Farnham battery heater pads, mounted on a sheet of styrofoam, ready to be placed underneath the four batteries I installed Oct. 31st (see previous post).





Saturday, October 31, 2009

New batteries & battery heater pad

Today I performed a temporary install of the 4 new batteries I've purchased for the Honda. These are in addition to the 6 it already has, thus making it a 120V system with ~12kWh pack (2o hr. rate). These four batteries plus the other two under the hood will be charged by two Dual Pro Recreational Series 3-Bank 6-Amp chargers. Each charger has 3 independent, isolated, microprocessor-controlled chargers capable of pushing 6 amps, which may be used in series or in parallel with each other. Here's a picture of the batteries wired up into a temporary 48V bank, with the Dual Pro chargers sitting next to them.


Also, I found out about a very economical way to control the temperature of batteries being warmed by battery heater pads: Water heater thermostats. These thermostats switch 120V AC, and handle the wattage of normal hot water tank heating coils. Perfect for the battery heater pads I've bought, which don't come anywhere close to the wattage of a hot water tank. And they cost less than $10 each, so you can afford to put one on each bank of batteries you'll be heating. That's important because different banks will have different thermal properties depending on their isolation from the outside environment. Here's a picture of a water heater thermostat I bought at Lowes, sitting on top of a Farnam battery heater pad I bought from KTA Services. The thermostat can control in a temperature range of 90'F - 150'F. Which is fine for lead acid batteries, since you probably want them warmed to about 100-120'F for best performance.


One thing Dave Cloud warned me about with the hot water tank thermostats, is to do one's best to isolate the thermostat from any possible gas the batteries might vent. This is due to the possibility that the contacts inside the thermostat could spark when making/breaking the circuit, which could ignite a concentration of hydrogen gas. While I assume this is more of a concern for flooded batteries than the AGMs I'm using, it's a valid point and one I will have to consider.

Saturday, October 10, 2009

New 4-Bank 10-Amp charger



Today I installed a new charger on the 4 batteries in the rear of the Honda. After looking a long time, I found a really good deal at ChargingChargers.com on the Dual Pro Sportsman SS4. This is a 4-bank, isolated, microprocessor-controlled 12-48V charger, which may be used as a single 12V-40A unit, 24V-20A, or 48V-10A, and so forth. It has a 3 year warranty. According to the box, there are 750,000 Dual Pro units in the field, and they tout being green by virtue of being 100% repairable, NOT disposable. Made in America.

I installed this charger to replace the four Soneil 1206S chargers that had been on these batteries before, two of which failed this summer during the hot weather.

Thursday, August 20, 2009

Battery Cost Analysis

I've been encouraged to post my recent evaluation of the cost of various models of traction batteries for EVs. I basically ran the numbers three ways, to answer three different questions:

1) What is the cost per mile to use a particular type of battery? This is answered by the "Total, cents/mile" row under the "System Detail" section. I didn't include the cost of support systems such as charger or battery balancers because, although they may cost more for one type of battery than for another, they are a fixed cost and don't need to be replaced when the battery pack is replaced.

2) What is the overall cost to use a particular type of battery for 120,000 miles? This is answered by the "Cost, $ (incl. electric)" row under the "120K miles" section.

3) How far can you drive on a particular type of battery before you exceed the cost of buying Lithium batteries at today's prices? This is answered by the "Total Miles" row under the "Equal Lithiums" section.

The Range figures were obtained from EV Calculator, using a '92 Metro, ADC FB-4001A, Kelly controller, battery specs available online, Range calculated to 80% Depth-of-Discharge, and a driving mix of 85% @ 30-40mph in 2nd gear and 15% @ 60mph in 3rd gear.

Here are my calculations. I'll let you interpret the numbers as you like. Sorry it's showing up triple-spaced; I can't find a way to correct that.

Cost

Battery Mftr / Model

Analysis

Prices as

Optima

Trojan

Discover

Sky Energy

of 6/15/09

D34M

T-1275

EV31A-A

SE100AHA

Battery

Detail

Chemistry

SLA-AGM

FLA

SLA-AGM

LiFePO4

Cost, $

188

200

490

121

Source

amazon

batteriesin

batteries

evcompo

.com

aflash.com

direct.com

nents.com

Voltage, V

12

12

12

3.2

Weight, lbs

43.5

84

74.1

7.04

Capacity, Ah

55

150

115

100

System

Detail

#(batts)

12

10

12

45

Voltage, V

144

120

144

144

Pack cost, $

2256

2000

5880

5445

Capacity, Wh

7920

18000

16560

14400

Weight, lbs

522

840

889

317

Range, mi

25

40

35

60

#(cycles)

600

600

600

2000

Miles/pack

15000

24000

21000

120000

Electricity, $

428

972

894

2592

(@9¢/kWh)

Total, ¢/mi

17.9

12.4

32.3

6.7

120K miles

#(packs)

8

5

6

1

Total miles

120000

120000

126000

120000

Cost, $

21469

14860

40645

8037

(incl. elec.)

Equal

Lithiums

#(packs)

3

3

1

1

Total miles

45000

72000

21000

120000

Cost, $

8051

8916

6774

8037

(incl. elec.)